Monday, May 26, 2014

More pattern instructions

So picking up where we left off last time, we are in the middle of deciphering all the instructions contained inside the pattern envelop before starting to cut any fabric.
To review, we have gone through cutting layouts, pattern marking and sewing instruction.  A few more points to cover before moving on:
1.       We will always position the cut pieces of fabric “right side together” unless indicated in the sewing instructions.  Why??  Because once we inside out the garment all the seams will then be on the inside and hidden from sight.  You will see these indications as a shaded and non-shaded parts of the sketch.
2.       Even if it doesn’t seem to make sense, we will follow the directions.  Why???  Because many of the pattern companies will have us sew several small pieces together, stitch them together and turn inside out, Voila! You have a garment.  So be patient and follow the directions, remember before the pattern goes to print, several seamstresses/tailors have made them to make sure all instructions are correct.  If you don’t follow the step by step instructions, the garment may not turn out as planned, may not fit, or just in general, look like garbage and we do not make garbage!! 
Any questions??  If so please post in the comments and I will answer them as soon as I can.
Now let’s take a look at a few of the directions and to avoid breaking copyright laws, I will be showing non-connected sketches and directions.  I hope this doesn’t confuse anyone!




I like to read through the directions before beginning a project so I sort of know what I am up against, this is not a requirement, but I like to, so that will be a “your preference” as you grow in your skill level.
This particular pattern I have picked up is extremely simple, there are no shoulder seams and no sleeves to worry about.  I prefer the kimono or dolman sleeve scrub tops because as a larger busted gal, the chest is a little less prominent and it gives you more freedom of movement when working with a patient.  Sometime shoulder seams, armhole openings and sleeves can be tight and as a working nurse it becomes REALLY annoying!!  So, while this top is simple it still gives us a little practice using the terms and directions.  The second top we make, I will make sure has sleeves so we will have to attach those!
So directions briefly read, fabric ironed and pattern pieces gently pressed to remove the wrinkles (so they are the correct size) so let’s move on to placing the pieces on the fabric and making those all-important cuts.
 This is one instance where you must flip the pattern piece” up” side down, or turn it over.  Because the edge that should be on the fold is at the selvedges or open ends.    I tried to photograph this though it is kinda hard to see.  I’m not tall enough!!


Now these photo show the “wrong “ and “right” way to lay this particular pattern piece, you always want to follow the arrow, so if your arrows on the front and back pieces are going the length of the fabric, you would want the smaller pieces oriented that way as well.  This REALLY matter when using a directional print, fabric with nap or knits with stretch.
WRONG:
 RIGHT:




OK, once everything is laid out and you are happy with placement, then simply cut along the heavy solid black line in the correct size, this one only has Large or X-Large, so we will be using the Large line.
You should end up with the following shapes:




We will begin actually garment construction next time!!  Please feel free to post comments or suggestions, I will address them as soon as I can!

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