Pattern envelop deconstruction

Welcome back sewers!!! 

Glad to see you all ready to dissect a pattern envelop back.  If you have one, please pull it out and if you don’t, no worries, photos will be provided as we walk step by step through all the information on the back.

Pattern envelop backs are a little different as each company has their own “style” but each one holds the same information.  Most of the patterns I will reference belong to the McCalls/Butterick/Vogue/Kwik Sew company, not that they pay me (ahem, that would be nice) but the Simplicity brand confuses me slightly because I grew up using McCalls and Butterick patterns.  Simplicity patterns tend to have you make several different pieces of the item sew them all together and then you are done, but it does not lend itself to seeing the item take shape as you sew which helps me a lot, I know people who swear by Simplicity and find the McCalls “technical” and “difficult”, so it is a preference thing.  Many of the items you can sew with the patterns are similar by both companies so go with one you find easiest to understand.  Also as a side note, I do not own a dress form.  Always wanted one…

Anyway, back to the task at hand; pattern envelop backs.  So you may have had the opportunity to flip through those big books at the fabric store and look at the articles of clothes that one can make with the corresponding pattern.  If you haven’t had the opportunity, please go, it is a fun thing to do and it gives us ideas and inspiration!!!  If you want to run out now, I’ll wait….

OK, so patterns in hand and now what?!?!?  Well let’s start with the front, it is WAY simpler than the back, the front shows a couple different things you can produce from the enclosed pattern, also gives you the size range of the enclosed pattern.  Most patterns these days are very true to size so pick the size you usually wear.  Some used to be notoriously small, but I think those days are past.

On to the back  you will see several different sections; I will identify each and have the most common companies pictured.  Once you are familiar with these sections, you will able to pick up a pattern produced anywhere and understand what is needed. You may also see more than one language as well as the instructions on the inside which we will get into later.

Let’s start with McCalls:

The VERY top left corner is the pattern number, while looking through the big pattern books, this is the corresponding number to item pictured.  This pattern happens to be a little girl’s dress pattern.  The number of items mean how many individual pattern pieces are in this envelop.  Patterns are printed on massive sheets of thin tissue paper-type paper and are quite fragile.  When unfolding the pattern, be gentle!

The highlighted box gives a brief description of what can be produced from the pieces in this pattern.  It appears this girl’s dress can be made with a staggered hem line (think train of a wedding dress), that is dress A or an even hemline, dress B.    Dress A also has long sleeves while dress B is short sleeved, there may be instruction if you want Dress B to have long sleeves, but this isn’t the time for that … yet.  Towards the very bottom are sketches of the front and back of a finished garment, these can also appear down the side of the pattern envelop as you will see with some of the other companies.

The next box down highlighted below is where we find out if we need a woven fabric or a knit.  Once you are more used to this whole process, you will be able to look at the photo and kinda get a feel for woven or knit.  Not being able to see the front of this envelop, I know this will call for woven fabric because it is a “formal” dress (Christening or costume) and generally those will be woven.  So let’s look at the “SUGGESTED FABRICS”:

As you can see, this pattern calls for Satin, Jacquard, Shantung, silk organza, and chiffon for the different view.  Confused?  Let’s look into this a little deeper, because this box is VERY important.  Pretend that you want to make dress A, so you would disregard everything that mention for “B”.  So for Dress A you will need Duchess Satin, Jacquard and a pleated chiffon, plus a no-cling lining.  How much of each is explained in the following box and that may also get confusing so let’s look a little deeper into it:

Now fabric GENERALLY comes in 2 different widths, 45” and 60”.  Both are folded in half at the manufacturer and are put on “bolts” those cardboard pieces that the fabric is wrapped around.  Cotton generally is 45” and polyester is 60”, with the exception of upholstery fabric which ranges 54 to 60” wide (or more sometime) and that fabric is hung on rolls or tubes.  While you COULD use some upholstery fabric with this pattern, let’s stick to what the pattern actually calls for!  So, across the top, you see sizes which means the finished product, for this example let’s say our girl is a size 6 and remember we are making dress A.  So the main fabric we need is Duchess satin which is similar in texture to Satin peau, both 60” wide and we need 3 and 3/8 yards of the 60” wide satin.  Notice the pattern calls for 54” wide fabric, this does not matter much because it is better to buy the wider fabric, gives you a little more “room” while laying out the pattern pieces than a 45” piece of fabric.  Dress A also has 3 contrasting items, whether a different color or texture they are as follows; contrast #1 ¾ yard of 60” jacquard, contrast #2 1 ¾ yards of 45” wide pleated chiffon and contrast #3 5/8 yard of 54” or 60” duchess satin.  Where did I find the pleated chiffon and satin?  In the suggested fabrics section of the pattern, just above the size box.

Next on this particular pattern company comes the “Notions” sections, please do not overlook this!!!  I understand it is on the bottom, but it is equally important as the fabric suggestions and the amount of fabric you need because this section will tell you what else you may need to finish off the garment like what length zipper and such.  Let’s look closer at the notions box:

Almost all notions suggestions will begin with “thread”; while this is a no-brainer to most, they are probably obligated to put that here, because once upon a time some use black thread on the white dress because thread was not in the notions….  OK, so past the thread, we will need a 14” zipper either invisible or regular, looks like the finishing lace is optional, a hook and eye and assorted beads and pearls are also needed.  Now notice that after the assorted beads and pearls, it breaks down again to Dress A and Dress B.  For this example we are still making dress A, so we would purchase the desired lengths of everything listed prior to the Dress B.

The last box is the finished dimensions, that is pretty straightforward, so no reason to delve into that section.

**Side note, while this pattern is GREAT as an example, I would NOT recommend this for beginners.  Rule of thumb; the number of pieces is a good indicator of how complicated a pattern will be.  This particular pattern is 24 pieces and while I’m undaunted by this, I would recommend a beginner to stick with 10 pieces or less until “horsehair braid” is a regular item at the bottom of the sewing box….

Let’s look at another brand so you can see the difference, here is a Simplicity pattern envelop back:

Hopefully you can see an immediate difference in the set up of the information; however, also notice the similarities in the information.  This pattern is for a ladies’ top, with a couple different combination of long sleeves, short sleeves, no sleeves and a gathered waist.  Once again, begin at the top left, pattern ID number and under that, number of pieces, this pattern has 10 pieces enclosed.

This Pattern company goes right into suggest fabric and does not give a description of the finished items:

This is also a woven pattern because the suggested fabric starts off with a cotton, the next couple fabric choices are all a polyester blend of woven in varying degrees of weight, but this looks like the softer and more drapey the fabric is the better!  So touch the fabrics and if it is very stiff, walk away!

Next box on this envelop is the notions, remember the other company had this box at the bottom?  Well, Simplicity has this box towards the top:

Of course Thread is first again!  LOL!  Then all the options in this pattern need one pkg of single fold bias tape, then option A, C and D need 1/4” elastic and option D needs buttons in addition to the rest.

Let’s take one second to look at all the sketches down the side of the package BEFORE we look at the fabric requirements, because this is where some novices get into trouble.  Please notice that option A and Option C are listed with the same drawing with the exception that option C is sleeveless.  Both A and C are very similar in construction, but A is the only option with full or probably ¾ sleeves, but I don’t have the front of the package to see the finished garment.  Similarly B and D are short sleeved with a slightly different necklines, D looks like it may have a collar and it looks like the sleeve hem on B is flat while D looks like it is puffed a little.  E and F are again very similar with E having a collar similar to option D’s collar.  Got it??  Great!!!  Let’s move on….

Next come the fabric requirements, or how much fabric you need to make the item:

OK so the pattern sizes are a little further down on this back, past your measurements in case you are unsure of what size to buy.  Generally you want to sew the size you wear most often.  Let’s pretend again we are making a size 12 top using option B.  We will need 1 and 5/8 yards of 45” wide fabric or 1 and 1/8 yards of 60” wide fabric.  Simple enough, don’t forget those notions!  And we are done with this shopping trip. 

The finished measurement of the garment appear toward the top of the envelop back unlike the McCalls where they appeared at the bottom.

Getting easier to understand?  I hope so, it isn’t as hard as most people think it is, let’s run through a couple other patterns just for the fun of it!

Here we have a KWIK SEW pattern.  They used to be a stand-alone company but at some point they magically became part of the McCalls/Butterick/Vogue conglomerate.  Let’s take a look:

Now across the very top you see the familiar pattern ID number and what this company calls this pattern, a misses Jelly Roll Jacket.  Notice the number of pieces is not printed on this envelop.  Next box down is a brief description of the item.  Then KWIK SEW varies a bit from the others and states right there between suggested fabric and the item description that this pattern is designed for woven fabrics.  Remember when I told you that KIWK SEW seems to be the only pattern company that tells you straight off the bat whether the pattern is for knit or woven fabric?  Well, there it is!  Now, on to suggested fabric:

This pattern calls for cotton, batiks, linen, lightweight denim and rayon blends.  Again probably not a jacket I would recommend for beginners because of the jelly roll detail on the front of the jacket, but is was a good example.

This pattern company prints the measurements next, those are self explanatory along with the finished measurements.  Remember, McCalls has the finished measurements at the very bottom and Simplicity has the measurement at the top and finished garments measurements at the bottom.  Same information, different locations.  Let’s move on… to amount of fabric needed or sizing:

We are going to use jacket A for this example because the B option has the pleating or Jelly roll and that is a bit much for our purposes.  So, let’s make a size Large jacket A.  How much fabric will we need?  If we 58-60” wide fabric, we need 2 and 5/8 yards for the white parts and contrast which is the light gray color in the sketches we need 7/8 of a yard.  If we are using fabric that is 45” wide we need 3 and 5/8 yards of the main fabric and 1 yard of contrast.  Make more sense?

**Side note**  some of the patterns have mention “fusible interfacing”.  This is narrow webbing that is ironed onto the unprinted or “wrong” side of the fabric to provide softer fabric a little more stiffness when making  cuffs or collars.  There are a myriad of interfacings, different weights, colors and sew in and iron on.  The iron on kind is called fusible while the sew in kind is called non-fusible.  This pattern needs ¾ of a yard of iron on (fusible) probably for the collar.

Now let’s not forget notions, KWIK SEW has their notion requirement at the bottom and of course thread is #1 again!!

All this one seems to need for jacket A are 5 buttons.

Seeing the similarity?  I was going to say, do you see a pattern but thought the better of that!! LOL.  Now one last pattern company which is Butterick and I was very pleased to find a knit pattern to show you:

This is also a Misses tops pattern with quite a few choices, but I want to call attention to the blue arrows along the right hand side of the envelop back.  This is required stretch of the knit needed to make this pattern correctly.  Unfortunately this isn’t the best quality image, so I have a woven pattern to dissect:

 Biggest difference in the Butterick patterns?  Anyone spot it??  The pattern ID number is NOT printed near the item description.  It is barely noticeable it the top right hand corner of this pattern and if you look at the above knit pattern  it is in the extreme left corner.  Otherwise it is looking familiar!!

Top box is the description, notions and fabric suggestions all in one.  The information begins with brief item description of Misses dress and stole, a more formal wear type item which requires?  WOVEN!!  Right!

Next are notions required, interestingly enough this does not have thread first or mentioned at all, maybe they believe we are smart enough… who knows?!  Both dresses require the same notions of a zipper, decorative buttons, seam binding and hook and eyes.  Fabric suggestion is next within that same paragraph:

This one specifically mentions the incompatibility of a striped fabric with this pattern, some will mention if the pattern company has not had good results with certain patterns.  All these companies have people with varying skills make these patterns prior to printing in production to ensure we will be able to make the item as pictured.

Next is the fabric requirement:

 Ok so we all know by now that if we want to make a size 12;  dress A which appears in the sketch to be more knee length and dress B will be full length, we will obviously need more fabric to reach the ground than the knee.  Hope this is beginning to make sense…  Size 12 Dress B will need 3 and ¼ yard of 45” wide fabric and 1 and ¾ of 60” wide fabric.  The stole (or wrap) require 2 and 5/8 of either width.  There is interfacing mentioned but does not specify on envelop whether fusible or not.

I hope we are all a little more familiar with the back of the pattern envelops now and I hope this post made it a little less scary to delve into those books at the fabric store.

Later we will go through the instructions included with patterns because those are also critical in success!!